gaz regan's

Bartender Bulletin

December 26, 2011

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Editorial

First and foremost, please give a big welcome to

a brand new sponsor here.  Do us a favor and click on their logo to go see what's going on with this thoughtful company.  Ta Muchly.

 









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Mindful Bartending

Listen ! listen! for one hour's attentive hearing is better than two hours' thoughtless talking.  Old Humphrey's Addresses, 1839.

 

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Cheap DateColey's Corner

Ada "Coley" Coleman was a celebrated early twentieth-century bartender at London's Savoy Hotel, and she was a woman who got her fair share of the limelight. 

When she announced that she was about to retire, in 1925, The Daily Express quoted her as saying, "I made cocktails for Mark Twain when he came in the Savoy, Diamond Jim Brady, Prince Wilhelm of Sweden, James Corbett, 'Mr A.', the Egyptian Princess - yes, and the Prince of Wales," and noted that she was "known to thousands of men all over the world."

In "Coley's Corner," then, we bring you links to stories about bartenders all over the place.  We think it might make Coley smile.  In this issue we're featuring:

 

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gaz's Cocktail Book

Copy and paste these babies to get yerself a very complete cocktail book.

 

Last of Our Sea Sorrow

Adapted from a recipe by Jon Bonné, San Francisco.

(With thanks and/or apologies to William Shakespeare)

The Cellarist by Jon Bonné, San Francisco Chronicle, July 4, 2009.

For those outside the fog belt, we're now into the throes of summer. That means, among other things, we can indulge in proper summer drinks.

Key among them is the Dark 'n' Stormy, that mix of dark rum and ginger beer that so perfectly sums up the lovely dichotomy of Bermudan life -- one dose of tropical ease, one splash of British colonial snap.

Of course, as Jonny Miles revealed yesterday in an excellent New York Times column, the Dark 'n' Stormy must be made with a very specific rum -- Gosling's Black Seal. Or else. The Gosling family, which has been doing business in Bermuda since about the time the American navy was fighting the First Barbary War at the turn of the 19th century, has trademarked said drink. Should you want a Dark 'n' Stormy, legally, there had better be Gosling's in your glass.

But as Miles puts it, locking up the intellectual property of a drink "seems anathema to the current bartending practice of putting creative individual spins on time-tested drinks." Apparently open-sourcing (I rather like his description of it as "a wiki process") has not escaped the beverage world, either.

So now seems like the time to share a recipe I've been enjoying since last summer, one that incidentally happens to harness three of my favorite tastes of last year.

There is the notion of the Dark 'n' Stormy in this drink, though I view that more as departure point than anything else. For one, the D'n'S is really more of a highball than a cocktail -- lovely in its two-ingredient (plus garnish) simplicity, but really more a refresher than a concoction. This brings in more overt ginger flavor, with the Domaine de Canton providing a baseline for the ginger ale. And lime, rather than a garnish, plays a crucial role in tying together the richer notes of the rum and liqueur and the sharp ginger kick. As to the rum, it really is a matter of taste. Gosling's will work here, though I find its charred molasses notes outshout the other flavors.

One holdup: the Blenheim No. 3 hot ginger ale. Despite my repeated kvetching, its brief appearance at BevMo has not been repeated for a while now, and whether you believe the theories about the scarcity of one of South Carolina's greatest resources, it has not been around on this coast lately. (I'm down to my last two bottles.) As a backup, I'd suggest one of the spicier ginger beers around -- Bundaberg works fine -- with a drop or two of Tabasco if you want to edge closer to Blenheim's fire. Myself, I find the heat in the drink notably takes the edge off a hot day.

Finally, there's the name, especially since use of the original is so highly regulated. This one took a while, but ultimately when thinking of the original name, my thoughts turned to "The Tempest" -- island, storm, the pieces all fit. (Note that Miles' thoughts also turned to Shakespeare.) The curious phrase "last of our sea-sorrow" is how Prospero describes the endgame of his and daughter Miranda's arrival on the island. It seemed a proper choice.

60 ml (2 oz) Ron Pampero Aniversario or other dark, aged rum

15 ml (.5 oz) Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur

7.5 ml (.25 oz) ounce lime juice

120 ml (4 oz) Blenheim ginger ale (hot, preferably)

1 slice lime, as garnish (optional)

Mix rum, Canton and lime juice in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake vigorously for 10-15 seconds. Either strain over fresh ice cubes into a highball glass and top with ginger ale, or strain into small goblet and add chilled ginger ale. Garnish with lime.

 

Last Word

This drink has been credited to Frank Fogarty, a man who, in 1912, was considered to be the most popular entertainer in vaudeville according to The New York Morning Telegraph.  “The single thing I work to attain in any gag is brevity,” said Fogarty when asked the secret of his success.  “You can kill the whole point of a gag by merely [using one] unnecessary word.”

22.5 ml (.75 oz)  dry gin

22.5 ml (.75 oz)  maraschino liqueur

22.5 ml (.75 oz)  Green Chartreuse

22.5 ml (.75 oz)  fresh lime juice

Shake over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

 

Latin Quarter

Adapted from a recipe by Joaquin Simo, Death and Company, New York.

Featured at the 2008 Flor de Caña Papa Doble Bartenders’ Beard Competition, New York.

60 ml (2 oz) Flor de Caña 18-year-old rum

1 tsp sugar cane syrup

3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

1 dash Bittermen’s Xocolatl Mole bitters

1 dash Deragon bitters (substitute Angostura if need be)

15 ml (.5 oz) absinthe, too rinse the glass

1 lemon twist, as garnish

Stir over ice and strain into a chilled old-fashioned glass that has been rinsed with absinthe.  Release the oils from the lemon twist onto the drink, and discard.

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